Anchor point for partial suspension Hang and selection of the appropriate body posture

[Suizident]

Hello,

How could an anchor point for a partial suspension hang (perhaps also a full suspension hang,
but more likely a partial suspension hang) be achieved under the following conditions:

The conditions are:

- Relatively low ceilings, approx. 7.54 feet
- Suspended ceilings made of plasterboard (for sound insulation)
- Brick exterior walls, probably sandstone (as it is an old building), but perhaps also modern bricks from a previous renovation
- Body weight approx. 143.3 pounds
- Body length approx. 70.86 inches


In my opinion, the load-bearing capacity of the ceilings is too low to attach a secure anchor point
there. Full suspension would then also be out of the question.

That leaves a partial suspension hang on one of the brick exterior walls.

This means I would have to attach a secure anchor point to one of the exterior walls, perhaps
with heavy-duty anchors to be on the safe side. I thought of a towel rack, but I could imagine
that the towel rack or its mounting bracket might break off, even if the anchors hold.

Does anyone have a better idea?


The possible anchor points described in various sources (e.g., window handles, door handles,
clothes rails) do not exactly inspire confidence: too low, could break off,
neighbors or passers-by could hear noises.



-------


In connection with the anchor points, I believe that the selection of a suitable
body posture is also important; perhaps this should also be made dependent
on the anchor point, among other things.


Here is a picture showing possible body positions that can generally be adopted during a
partial suspension hang:

https://unigeschichte.unibas.ch/fileadmin/_processed_/3/0/csm_22._Atypisches_Erhaengen_II_4337d9ec7f.jpg

What I wonder about all these positions is whether, before or after losing consciousness,
the natural survival instinct leads to leaving the predicament (e.g., by standing up) and thus taking
the pressure off the carotid arteries?

Of the possible body positions in the image linked above, the position
in row 3, column 1 seems most likely to prevent this: standing up to relieve the
pressure on the carotid arteries seems most difficult from this position. On the other hand,
another position might be better for control freaks, to give them a feeling of control and avoid
panic and thus mistakes.

Furthermore, it may also be the case that the attempt has to be aborted if something does not work.



I look forward to constructive feedback! :)

Many thanks and best regards,

Suizident

 

[Lemuell]

you could use those gym weights

 

[AreWeWinning]

Hello,

How could an anchor point for a partial suspension hang (perhaps also a full suspension hang,
but more likely a partial suspension hang) be achieved under the following conditions:

The conditions are:

- Relatively low ceilings, approx. 7.54 feet
- Suspended ceilings made of plasterboard (for sound insulation)
- Brick exterior walls, probably sandstone (as it is an old building), but perhaps also modern bricks from a previous renovation
- Body weight approx. 143.3 pounds
- Body length approx. 70.86 inches


In my opinion, the load-bearing capacity of the ceilings is too low to attach a secure anchor point
there. Full suspension would then also be out of the question.

That leaves a partial suspension hang on one of the brick exterior walls.

This means I would have to attach a secure anchor point to one of the exterior walls, perhaps
with heavy-duty anchors to be on the safe side. I thought of a towel rack, but I could imagine
that the towel rack or its mounting bracket might break off, even if the anchors hold.

Does anyone have a better idea?


The possible anchor points described in various sources (e.g., window handles, door handles,
clothes rails) do not exactly inspire confidence: too low, could break off,
neighbors or passers-by could hear noises.



-------


In connection with the anchor points, I believe that the selection of a suitable
body posture is also important; perhaps this should also be made dependent
on the anchor point, among other things.


Here is a picture showing possible body positions that can generally be adopted during a
partial suspension hang:

https://unigeschichte.unibas.ch/fileadmin/_processed_/3/0/csm_22._Atypisches_Erhaengen_II_4337d9ec7f.jpg

What I wonder about all these positions is whether, before or after losing consciousness,
the natural survival instinct leads to leaving the predicament (e.g., by standing up) and thus taking
the pressure off the carotid arteries?

Of the possible body positions in the image linked above, the position
in row 3, column 1 seems most likely to prevent this: standing up to relieve the
pressure on the carotid arteries seems most difficult from this position. On the other hand,
another position might be better for control freaks, to give them a feeling of control and avoid
panic and thus mistakes.

Furthermore, it may also be the case that the attempt has to be aborted if something does not work.



I look forward to constructive feedback! :)

Many thanks and best regards,

Suizident

For the anchor point, it depends whether you're handy with tools. If you have a brick wall, you could install an anchor hook or something at the top of the wall. It's not difficult to do, and the force on it will be a sheering force, so it's quite safe.

For partial, you could use a doorway pull-up bar – there are different kinds. Or you could use a door anchor for resistance bands or make one at home.

Regarding body positions, full suspension is the most lethal. For partial, in your linked image, in my opinion, row 1 column 1 and 3 are okay. The others are risky. You can also check the following threads.

Jesibel's post on positions in partial
My post on positions in partial

 

[Suizident]

For the anchor point, it depends whether you're handy with tools. If you have a brick wall, you could install an anchor hook or something at the top of the wall. It's not difficult to do, and the force on it will be a sheering force, so it's quite safe.

For partial, you could use a doorway pull-up bar – there are different kinds. Or you could use a door anchor for resistance bands or make one at home.

Regarding body positions, full suspension is the most lethal. For partial, in your linked image, in my opinion, row 1 column 1 and 3 are okay. The others are risky. You can also check the following threads.

Jesibel's post on positions in partial
My post on positions in partial

Hello,

Thank you very much for your comments and for the linked threads. Many thanks also to the
authors of the linked threads for taking the time to contribute.


------------

I have now thought about the matter a little more
and done some more research.

The threads you linked to also discuss the idea of using a dumbbell as an anchor point.
Two variants are discussed:


Variant #1:

Clamp the dumbbell between the door and the door frame at the
top and let the rope dangle down on the other side.

Variant #1 won't work for the following reasons:

- The door and door frame are of the cheapest variety and the frame
is only loosely attached to the wall. I think it's quite possible that the door frame
could tear out of the wall due to the weight.


Variant #2:

The dumbbell lies on the floor and the rope is passed under the door to the other side,
then the door is lifted and the rope is brought back up to the side of the dumbbell
at the top of the door and left to dangle there.

Variation #2 seems safer to me than variation 1, but it doesn't work here
either because the
gap between the door and the floor is too narrow for the rope to be
pulled through.



--------

Then there's the idea with the pull-up bar. You can also screw
it to the brick exterior wall, preferably with heavy-duty anchors.

Question I ask myself about this:

- The distance between the wall and the pull-up bar is narrow, meaning it's
likely that the body will touch the wall when hanging?



----------

The distance between the wall and the pull-up bar is narrow, meaning it is likely
that the body will touch the wall while hanging, or at the latest when it starts
to twitch. However, it is also possible that the body is in contact with the wall
from the start.

Through contact with the wall, perhaps only slightly but still, the weight of
the body is likely to be transferred to the wall, thereby reducing the
pressure exerted by the rope on the carotid arteries somewhat (?).



Question I ask myself about this:

- Is this still a full suspension hang, or is it more of a partial suspension hang due
to the contact with the wall and the resulting relief of pressure on the carotid
arteries?



--------


I would be happy to receive constructive feedback again! :)

Many thanks and best regards,
Suizident

 

[AreWeWinning]

Variant #1:

Clamp the dumbbell between the door and the door frame at the
top and let the rope dangle down on the other side.

Variant #1 won't work for the following reasons:

- The door and door frame are of the cheapest variety and the frame
is only loosely attached to the wall. I think it's quite possible that the door frame
could tear out of the wall due to the weight.


Variant #2:

The dumbbell lies on the floor and the rope is passed under the door to the other side,
then the door is lifted and the rope is brought back up to the side of the dumbbell
at the top of the door and left to dangle there.

Variation #2 seems safer to me than variation 1, but it doesn't work here
either because the
gap between the door and the floor is too narrow for the rope to be
pulled through.

Although you didn't ask, I agree. If the door feels weak, then it's probably not safe to use with either variant.

The distance between the wall and the pull-up bar is narrow, meaning it is likely
that the body will touch the wall while hanging, or at the latest when it starts
to twitch. However, it is also possible that the body is in contact with the wall
from the start.

Through contact with the wall, perhaps only slightly but still, the weight of
the body is likely to be transferred to the wall, thereby reducing the
pressure exerted by the rope on the carotid arteries somewhat (?).



Question I ask myself about this:

- Is this still a full suspension hang, or is it more of a partial suspension hang due
to the contact with the wall and the resulting relief of pressure on the carotid
arteries?

If the body doesn't touch the ground, then it's full suspension hanging, yes. If it touches the wall in the way you describe, I don't think that matters at all from a practical point of view. It still counts as full suspension and will not reduce the pressure. Unless you can climb up a wall, like a spider :)

 

[JesiBel]

I was thinking that if you can't use the ceiling or walls to mount some kind of hook or pull up bar..

Maybe something similar to the setup of the user BardBarrie could be useful to you:

Thread 'Feedback On My Setup (Full-Suspension Hanging)'

https://sanctioned-suicide.net/threads/feedback-on-my-setup-full-suspension-hanging.210364/

 

[Suizident]

Although you didn't ask, I agree. If the door feels weak, then it's probably not safe to use with either variant.



If the body doesn't touch the ground, then it's full suspension hanging, yes. If it touches the wall in the way you describe, I don't think that matters at all from a practical point of view. It still counts as full suspension and will not reduce the pressure. Unless you can climb up a wall, like a spider :)

Hello,

Thank you very much for your feedback. That is helpful.


----

I was wondering if this heavy-duty hook could serve as an
anchor point:



https://www.amazon.de/Connex-Schwerlasthaken-350-belastbar-DY222016/ dp/B00HDBII1W/ref=sr_1_6?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=390PD3VHFC70F&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.gqsPeWy -yHhDsXtzU6_YOjbj-jfEXwuBuJIB3p-YHPj7yytfDBkRKon4QVtT6UxCabRe_8dbZY_XszAKw3EiiRh8wtqsNzlv2TU2wCtIf9sluX36wuJqgHJGjMeKLJZBn_ -JARNtgPf_Oe78j5dmrT7F5Fv1PoKeKMwyK3vk_KpA7Kuen_h8dYWHNxykf -VUCD2L37aCSFrWttCpA6dLn2reuEVgYQ8Ap0KTJjeHnuKMkVpx55GSEKew-XDfgL6Jp_wbkPj6NCT45FTyhlLUu6zfl0DwxbieemEJcX25Ais. VV5XoRnHkmwL3pF8z4veXCrT0HiYpcLMW3bpuzU-UvE&dib_tag=se&keywords=schwerlasthaken&qid=1755022184&sprefix=schwerlasthaken%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-6&th=1

According to the manufacturer's specifications, the heavy-duty hook can bear loads of up to 220 pounds.
The body weight in question would only be approx. 143 pounds.

The advantage of the hook is that it can be mounted on the wall, so you don't need a load-bearing ceiling.




-----

The rope would be attached to the vertical strut of the hook. The user's body would then have to be positioned
so that their back is facing the wall, or at a 90-degree angle to the wall.

The rope would then touch the diagonal strut.

The question I ask myself is:

-If the body moves arbitrarily or involuntarily, could
the force transmitted by the rope to the vertical strut possibly cause the
mounting (dowel, screw) to come loose from the wall?


The maximum load specified by the manufacturer is up to 220
pounds. However, the hook is intended for storing tools, pipes,
parasols, etc. lying on it (two or more hooks are required for this purpose).

The hook is less intended for hanging objects on it. This raises the question
of how much force is actually applied to the hook and thus to the wall mounting
and also to the weld seams when an object is hanging from it and possibly
moving. I am thinking about mechanics in the physical sense; there are
lever forces and torques (I am not sure if these technical terms are commonly known?).




------

In terms of fastening materials, I am considering heavy-duty anchors (dowel)
On the other hand, these are only available with a minimum diameter of
1/2 inch (at least I haven't found any thinner heavy-duty anchors
(dowel) yet) and I'm not sure if a 1/2-inch anchor can be inserted through
the holes drilled by the manufacturer (i.e., the holes in the hook might be too thin).
The nature of the masonry is not yet entirely clear; it could be solid sandstone,
tall bricks, or hollow sand-lime bricks.



------

I would appreciate further feedback from experts, as it would really help me! :)

Many thanks and best regards!
Suizident.

 

[AreWeWinning]

Hello,

Thank you very much for your feedback. That is helpful.


----

I was wondering if this heavy-duty hook could serve as an
anchor point:

View attachment 175315

https://www.amazon.de/Connex-Schwerlasthaken-350-belastbar-DY222016/ dp/B00HDBII1W/ref=sr_1_6?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=390PD3VHFC70F&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.gqsPeWy -yHhDsXtzU6_YOjbj-jfEXwuBuJIB3p-YHPj7yytfDBkRKon4QVtT6UxCabRe_8dbZY_XszAKw3EiiRh8wtqsNzlv2TU2wCtIf9sluX36wuJqgHJGjMeKLJZBn_ -JARNtgPf_Oe78j5dmrT7F5Fv1PoKeKMwyK3vk_KpA7Kuen_h8dYWHNxykf -VUCD2L37aCSFrWttCpA6dLn2reuEVgYQ8Ap0KTJjeHnuKMkVpx55GSEKew-XDfgL6Jp_wbkPj6NCT45FTyhlLUu6zfl0DwxbieemEJcX25Ais. VV5XoRnHkmwL3pF8z4veXCrT0HiYpcLMW3bpuzU-UvE&dib_tag=se&keywords=schwerlasthaken&qid=1755022184&sprefix=schwerlasthaken%2Caps%2C115&sr=8-6&th=1

According to the manufacturer's specifications, the heavy-duty hook can bear loads of up to 220 pounds.
The body weight in question would only be approx. 143 pounds.

The advantage of the hook is that it can be mounted on the wall, so you don't need a load-bearing ceiling.




-----

The rope would be attached to the vertical strut of the hook. The user's body would then have to be positioned
so that their back is facing the wall, or at a 90-degree angle to the wall.

The rope would then touch the diagonal strut.

The question I ask myself is:

-If the body moves arbitrarily or involuntarily, could
the force transmitted by the rope to the vertical strut possibly cause the
mounting (dowel, screw) to come loose from the wall?


The maximum load specified by the manufacturer is up to 220
pounds. However, the hook is intended for storing tools, pipes,
parasols, etc. lying on it (two or more hooks are required for this purpose).

The hook is less intended for hanging objects on it. This raises the question
of how much force is actually applied to the hook and thus to the wall mounting
and also to the weld seams when an object is hanging from it and possibly
moving. I am thinking about mechanics in the physical sense; there are
lever forces and torques (I am not sure if these technical terms are commonly known?).




------

In terms of fastening materials, I am considering heavy-duty anchors (dowel)
On the other hand, these are only available with a minimum diameter of
1/2 inch (at least I haven't found any thinner heavy-duty anchors
(dowel) yet) and I'm not sure if a 1/2-inch anchor can be inserted through
the holes drilled by the manufacturer (i.e., the holes in the hook might be too thin).
The nature of the masonry is not yet entirely clear; it could be solid sandstone,
tall bricks, or hollow sand-lime bricks.



------

I would appreciate further feedback from experts, as it would really help me! :)

Many thanks and best regards!
Suizident.

You're right, that shelf mount is unsuitable for the task, for the reasons you described. It's not designed for holding the full weight at the end of the hook.

If you don't mind being close to the wall, you could use something like this: Eyelet mount example 1, Eyelet mount example 2. If you want to be away from the wall, you can install them on the ceiling.

Although the above-mentioned eyelets are definitely strong enough, you could also install a wall-mounted pull-up bar if you want something even more robust, like NoFearNoDeath did.

With anything wall-mounted, the key is to use heavy-duty wall bolts that are suitable for the type of wall you have. If you know the type of wall, it's not difficult to get right. Check the description of the wall bolt. There are also great tutorials and guides on YouTube. In general, you want some type of expansion wall bolt made of metal

(If you don't know the type of the wall, it's easy to determine by drilling into it.)

Another great option is to use resin anchors or resin fixings. They are more universal and can work on different types of walls. They can be extremely strong, even stronger than metal wall bolts — it's not an exaggeration, it's technically accurate.

If you don't want to work with walls, free-standing pull-up bars can also be an option. I've seen this mentioned in recent threads, and it's not a bad idea.

 

[Suizident]

I was thinking that if you can't use the ceiling or walls to mount some kind of hook or pull up bar..

Maybe something similar to the setup of the user BardBarrie could be useful to you:

Thread 'Feedback On My Setup (Full-Suspension Hanging)'

https://sanctioned-suicide.net/threads/feedback-on-my-setup-full-suspension-hanging.210364/

The idea is good, thank you for pointing it out.

In this case, however, there is not enough space for this approach.

You're right, that shelf mount is unsuitable for the task, for the reasons you described. It's not designed for holding the full weight at the end of the hook.

If you don't mind being close to the wall, you could use something like this: Eyelet mount example 1, Eyelet mount example 2. If you want to be away from the wall, you can install them on the ceiling.

Although the above-mentioned eyelets are definitely strong enough, you could also install a wall-mounted pull-up bar if you want something even more robust, like NoFearNoDeath did.

With anything wall-mounted, the key is to use heavy-duty wall bolts that are suitable for the type of wall you have. If you know the type of wall, it's not difficult to get right. Check the description of the wall bolt. There are also great tutorials and guides on YouTube. In general, you want some type of expansion wall bolt made of metal

(If you don't know the type of the wall, it's easy to determine by drilling into it.)

Another great option is to use resin anchors or resin fixings. They are more universal and can work on different types of walls. They can be extremely strong, even stronger than metal wall bolts — it's not an exaggeration, it's technically accurate.

If you don't want to work with walls, free-standing pull-up bars can also be an option. I've seen this mentioned in recent threads, and it's not a bad idea.

Hello,

Thank you very much for your once again very stimulating comments.


The question is whether it is or should be a problem to be close to the wall. I suspect that it is a problem, e.g., that you
might accidentally bump your head or other body parts against the wall when making involuntary movements. On the
other hand, the question arises as to whether one should take such "luxuries" into consideration; I am unsure about this myself.


However, I see another challenge with the heavy-duty hook with eyelet that you linked to: how are you supposed to tie a knot
in this small eyelet? My rope is from the hardware store (probably synthetic hemp) and has a diameter of approx. 0.39 inches
(to know for sure, I'll have to measure it again with a caliper as soon as I find it.



Ceiling mounting is not possible because the ceilings are plasterboard.




----


The pull-up bars are fine. I would have liked to avoid them so as not to attract attention from neighbors and potential observers,
but perhaps it cannot be avoided. Or is there another option?


What do you think of these two pull-up bars:

#1.

https://www.amazon.de/ISE-Multifunktion-Klimmzugstange-Deckenmontage-Oberkörpertrainer/dp/B07HNWZZ1K/ref=sr_1_49_sspa? __mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=1FHYHR54NBXSH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.H70AErUuyUoWWvZMfapL2OscTVYRyQ34 -ZRrfimNLji5bWJolCI4ywX_HWgLBnIVqjHNKBRR2x7xvMe0TA40_iVKuTZNavZnOtMFVhqNuqrKoKQ1H9HU8AZhdycy52NNXQF2VWKk_o3ZflU0ka6AlDVjGCVehA -ZclDvnVlloW90yrlUdDSmKQYrxT1D-OCvQXIcePKXf5CGAx1y_RqrO-Awxsp8x2N3S0dRuRwKTq9KIl -Aw344CbLfuQdenA76nfLcIzmBZ7h2AVglgZVGPSiaPd3wYMBCfke8u_Ay6Sg. -nyM6GKd9TfY0FiWRMAic1A_KtSKlVQR5sPXzFL_zDw&dib_tag=se&keywords=pull-up bar+wall mounting&qid=1755199792& sprefix=pull-up bar+wall mounting%2Caps%2C113&sr=8-49-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGY&psc=1


#2.

https://www.amazon.de/KFA8®-Klimmzugstange-Wand-Platzsparende-Calisthenics/dp/B0DMTGLRXB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ& crid=1RGB59Z8ARTEU&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.1T8h9lsjYgttNBPpT0LS-H9piMmbd65n4HFbCetw9iWjwkxvuFHpvPMet6-att5-Q9gk0FM78P3KvtkTOO6LRx -o3ds8HfM3zRg4DdJ44OOFltVdGVpfdtJgBQ8jC9aZ1SYyusV0UxLEv73aYY_ -0ehnTZtJSN3BsBWcRiOu-pAcG4EpWJE37BVkTcq2DjMyC-ev3XI-67PQNwae1XLjlmcwCF1FHdGMi2dGL1MDDUvkyhwIETfyOJTOekPa7KutYeIPnZV1a -PcCcB4RCYWSH5y8XHI6nnf3_0-5ixOUEQ.bOOfuoZyopsVSRbwgVfX6aeeC8d8yrwKhY6IDZUxfss&dib_tag=se&keywords=pull-up bar%2Bwall mounting&qid=1755209933& sprefix=pull-up bar%2Bwall mounting%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1



According to the manufacturer, #1 can hold up to 440 pounds. For #2, the maximum weight recommendation is 275 pounds.
Body weight is approximately 143 pounds in this case.

On the other hand, leverage and torque can also play a role with pull-up bars. As mentioned, body weight is approximately
pounds, and according to the manufacturer, the pull-up bar can hold up to 440 pounds. Have possible leverage and
torque already been taken into account? Otherwise, a 220-pound man should probably not do pull-ups on such a bar.



----

I would be happy to receive a few more of your valuable insights. :)

Many thanks and best regards,
Suizident

 

[AreWeWinning]

However, I see another challenge with the heavy-duty hook with eyelet that you linked to: how are you supposed to tie a knot
in this small eyelet?

If the rope fits through the eyelet, it won't be a problem. If it doesn't, you can use a carabiner, for example.

The pull-up bars are fine. I would have liked to avoid them so as not to attract attention from neighbors and potential observers,
but perhaps it cannot be avoided. Or is there another option?

Indoors? Nothing I can think of that hasn't been mentioned already. You could do it outdoors if you don't want to do it indoors.

What do you think of these two pull-up bars:

Pull-up bars should be able to hold a weight that is within their specification, with torque, leverage, doing pull ups, and everything else accounted for. The question is whether you can trust the manufacturer, and my guess is as good as yours. If you don't trust it, you could upgrade the wall plugs and use heavy-duty wall bolts or resin fixings (as mentioned earlier) instead of the ones that come with the bar.